Trip to Handeni

We were invited to visit Handeni this past weekend by our friend, Pastor Lewis Shemkala. We met Pastor Shemkala on our first visit to Tanzania in 2008.  At that time he was pastor of our partner congregation in Tanga. In 2010 he stayed in our home in Cinnaminson while visiting the US with a delegation from the ELCT to our synod, Southeastern Pennsylvania.  A little more than a year ago, he was transferred to Handeni Lutheran Parish.

On Friday morning, William, the evangelist and driver for Handeni, came to pick us up for the trip.  Pastor had offered to provide our transportation since we had never gone there before.

We started our trip at Lushoto Hospital.  Pastor’s grandmother was being discharged with stage 4 cancer.  His wife and other family members were accompanying her home to Mlalo, further up in the mountains.  Former Bishop Jali offered prayer before they left on their journey.  He began with the first verse of “Shall We Gather at the River” in Kiswahili and continued with prayer.  It was very moving for all present.  We offered to postpone our visit, but Pastor had obligations in Handeni that required his presence there.  He would go to Mlalo on our return.

The drive was about four hours.  The first two hours were familiar to us…down the mountain to Mombo and then east to Korogwe (where we go for an ATM machine).  At Korogwe, we went south on a newly rebuilt highway. 

Handeni is a town in Handeni District.  This area is known as the Lowlands.  The scenery is so different from where we usually travel.  The roads going east and west follow the Usambara and Pare Mountain ranges.  Out one window, you see tall rugged mountains.  Out the other side is the Maasai Steppe, mostly flat, dry land.  In some areas the tallest things are trees and termite mounds.  Going toward Handeni, the land was rolling with some higher hills in the distance.  It was much greener than we thought it would be because of recent rains. 

We passed through several villages and noticed an increasing number of houses with thatched roofs. We also saw more and more mud construction houses and fewer brick ones.  Because of the colder temperatures here, most homes are brick with tin roofs. 

We reached Handeni and were greeted by Pastor Shemkala’s two youngest children and some members of his congregation.  His home is on the grounds of the church.  The parish is in the midst of completing their new church.  It is quite big and has beautiful tile work and details.  They expect to complete the work by 2015.  We enjoyed chai and spent until dinner talking outside in the shade. 

After dinner, William took us to our hotel which will open at the end of this month.  It will be called the Handeni Hilton, believe it or not.  The hotel has twenty-two ensuite rooms and a restaurant out closer to the road.  Our accommodations were very good and it was cool enough that we did not need to turn on the air conditioning.

In the morning after breakfast, William picked us up and we all went with Pastor and his son Isaya, age 8, to the Maasai livestock market.  Pastor’s daughter Erica, age 11, decided to stay at home.  The market is just outside town and was crowded with many Massai people.  In one area there were cattle, in another were goats and a few sheep.  In a third area, some verdors were selling items like rope, tarps, and sandals.  William told us that the Maasai sell their cattle for various reasons.  Sometimes when there are not enough grasses in their area, they reduce their herd accordingly.  Also, they will sell some cattle and buy others in order to strengthen the health of the herd.  The cows were what we would call Brahma type, with the hump on their back.  Up in the mountains, our cows look like those at home, but this kind does well in the lower, warmer climate.  There are also people who come to buy cattle to resell or to sell for meat.

Pen of sold cattle

Maasai cattle market

cooling down with coconut milk 

After the market, we drove through Handeni to see the shops, churches, and other sights.  Then we returned for lunch.  (It actually felt to me like we did a lot of eating…breakfast, lunch, chai, and then dinner).  We went back to the hotel to rest for the afternoon, since Pastor had some meetings scheduled.  We returned in the evening in time for dinner. 

with Erica and Pastor Shemkala

Handeni parish seems much more relaxed than Kana’s in Tanga.  It is out in the country and people just stop by throughout the day.  In the evening, we sat outside the house and enjoyed a beautiful red sunset and then watched as the sky darkened and the stars came out one by one.  It was also a full moon.  We enjoyed a delicious dinner of fresh fish, chicken, ugali, potatoes, mchicha (spinach) and a salad of cucumbers, carrots and tomatoes. 

Handeni Lutheran Church 

In the morning, we were back at church for the 7:30 service.  The attendance is usually around 300 people at the early service and less than a hundred at the late service, which begins at 10.  A retired doctor named Henry sat with us to translate for us.  There was a younger women’s choir, a senior choir, and a brass group.  The music was wonderful.  We introduced ourselves and Tom spoke about the Lutheran Church’s partnership program, which brought us here to Tanzania. 

Isaya Shemkala

After the first service and another light breakfast & chai, we traveled about a half hour to Sindeni.  Before reaching Sindeni, we were met along the road by a piki piki (motorcycle) driver who led us to our next stop.  We turned off the road onto a dirt track and were led through the bush to the Maasai sub parish.  As we approached we could see and then hear the singing by the members waiting for us.  The young women’s choir were singing a song of greeting.  When we got out of the car and came to them, they formed into a line and danced past us, lowering their head in front of each of us.  This is the custom of asking for a blessing.  So as each girl paused before us and bowed her head, we put our hand on their head and offered a blessing.  There were about 20 members of the choir, all dressed in their traditional robes.  One girl was playing a drum and two had wooden pipes they blew which made a horn sound. 

In front of Sindeni Maasai sub-parish

We were greeted by some women and escorted into a small area off the sanctuary.  They had prepared chicken and rice for us and also gave us each bottled water and soda.  After we finished eating, Tom and I were led into the church, while Pastor and William stayed behind to discuss the service with the Maasai-speaking evangelist there.  The leader of the tribe was named Simon.  He introduced us to the congregation.  He also spoke perfect English, so he translated for us and explained different aspects of the service.  The girls sang several songs.  Pastor led the service in Kiswahili and the evangelist translated into Kimaasai.  The sound of the Maasai language is like music itself.

Because we needed to get back before dark, we had to leave the service before it ended.  Outside Simon and a group of members presented us each with a blanket and a beaded Maasai cross.  We will treasure these and our memories of this weekend forever. 

 

Maasai beaded crosses

What a week so far!

Last week after Evangelist Kipingu led morning devotions at the children’s home, he mentioned that the rainy season (called the “short rains”) would begin on Sunday the 13th.  Sunday morning was a lovely day, so we decided to walk to town after church.  While in Lushoto, the clouds moved in and by the time we were walking home the torrential rain began. 

This rainy season is called the short rains, because it rains almost every day, but only for a short time.  Often the rain falls during the night.  On Monday the rain continued on and off all day.  Our laundry hung inside the house all day, but did not dry.

Tuesday dawned with the clearest sky we have seen in a long while.  The sky was a brilliant blue.  All of the laundry went outside and Veronica added to it with the day’s wash.  By evening everything was dry.

After devotions in the morning, we got together with Mama Mdemu, Mama Mrisho, and Christian, the driver, to take a ride to the home’s shamba (farm) up in Irente Juu (Upper Irente).  Tom drove up past Irente Farm and toward the View Point.  We turned onto a narrow dirt lane, past some small houses and farm plots, until the road ended.  Tom parked and we got out to walk.  The walk through the forest was wonderful.  The shade protected us from the hot sun and there was a nice breeze.  Some men had been hired to dig the soil.  Soon the field will be planted with corn and beans.

We walked back to the car and found two goat kids enjoying the shade underneath.  With the goats safely back with their mamas, we turned around and headed back up the road.  Ahead were many boda boda’s (motorcycle taxis) bringing people to a house.  As we approached we could hear loud crying.  We stopped to see what had happened. 

The woman who lived there had just received the news of her granddaughter’s death.  With cell phones and a great community spirit here, many people came to console the family.  Some women were already beginning to prepare food for all who would arrive. 

We all walked up to the house to shake hands with each person and express our sympathy.   Frankly, this is something which feels awkward to me.  In a great time of tragedy like this, who really wants perfect strangers arriving?  But we were warmly welcomed and appreciated.

This morning, Wednesday, we awoke to find that there was no water.  Tom walked up to the home to find out if the water was still working there.  It was not, but he was able to fill some buckets from the sims tank there.  Within a few minutes, two students arrived with two more buckets full and our neighbor Zulfa brought us two more.  When I thanked them, one new student named Rita said, “No, we thank you Bibi and Babu”.

Tom’s job this morning was to take some students with lots of buckets to the next village to bring water back to the home.  With 39 children plus the students and staff, lots of water is needed for washing, cooking and laundry.  He will probably make another water-run this afternoon. 

Hopefully, the problem will be resolved before too long.  One of the things I have learned to appreciate and miss from home is tap water, something we mostly take for granted.  How wonderful to be able to enjoy a glass of water whenever you want, straight from the tap! 

On Friday this week, we are traveling to Handeni to visit with our friend Pastor Shemkala, who was previously pastor of Kana Lutheran Parish in Tanga.  His new congregation has many Masai members.  This will be our first time in the Handeni area, which is located south of Korogwe, about a four-hour drive from here.  Pastor is sending his driver for us.  We are looking forward to our time with him, his family, and his congregation.  We will return home on Sunday after church services.

We are thankful to God for all of His blessings.  The water came back by lunch and we did not lose power at the same time.

Youth Sunday at Irente Lutheran Parish

September 29th was Youth Sunday at Irente Lutheran Church.  There had to be about 100 children in church. Their ages ranged from maybe 13 or 14 down to five of the small kids from the home - Husseini, Daudi, Furaha, Bahati and Martha, ages 2 to 3.  

The gospel was Mark 10: 13-19 when Jesus blesses the little children.  Some of the kids presented a little skit.  Eleven of the older children were wrapped in robes (11 disciples, minus Judas…maybe no one wanted to be him) and one boy was Jesus.  A large group of the younger kids came down the aisle from the back and they re-enacted the gospel story.  When the disciples tried to chase the children away, the boy portraying Jesus came to them and placed his hands on each one’s head.  It was a very moving presentation.  Unfortunately, even after almost two years, our Kiswahili is not good enough to follow all of the words, but it was not necessary.

Of course, the singing is always lively and wonderful.  The kids really get into it. The children from the home were the youngest there and started getting antsy after the first hour or so.  Tom ended up taking Furaha and Bahati outside before the end of the service. 

Prayers were offered for the children and the Sunday School teachers.  There are 120 children on the roles at Irente Lutheran Parish.

Sunday School is usually held during the early service in the lower level of the church.  We really enjoy listening to the children’s voices throughout the service.  Many weeks the singing runs through the sermon.  It is great to hear the joy in the children’s voices as they sing.  My understanding is that the older children get to play the drums.  One of our students told us that Husseini said he can’t wait to be the one who plays the drum.

After church, we walk back to the home with the children and the students.  It is fun listening to the kids talk about what they did in class.  Here it is all about stories, prayer, and songs.  There are no arts and crafts or drawings to bring home.  This is one of the things that is not missed by the kids, because it is not expected.  With Bible stories, prayers and singing what more do you need?

Graduation, September 27, 2013

Friday the 27^th arrived bright and sunny.  It was the event our second year students had looked forward to for so long….graduation.   On Thursday, they all went to town to various hair salons to have their hair done.  All but one student had extensions added to their short hair.  Magreth decided to go with a short, straight wig instead.  They came out of the dorm dressed in their caps and gowns with slacks underneath and high heels.  With their long hair and makeup they looked amazing.

After Tom brought the MC with his amplifier and speakers, the electricity went out.  Fortunately, the people from Finland, who live across the road, have a generator, which we borrowed. 

Esther explains how to make fresh juice.

Guests began arriving around 9:30 am, but the celebration did not get underway until 11.  The graduates processed out waving handkerchiefs, preceded by Mama Mdemu and followed by the staff and first year students.  The first item on the agenda was a review of all of the topics learned during their time here.  Each student talked about one item ranging from preparing food, formula, and juice to what one should look for when washing a child…head to toe.  They all did a great job explaining their assigned topic.

Now second year students sing their goodbye. 

During the celebration, the graduates sang several songs and presented a short play of how an abandoned child arrives at the home.  The skit brought much laughter to all because of the humorous acting skills of the students.  Along with the graduates, the now second year students sang songs saying goodbye to their graduating sisters.  Also, the choir from the Blind School sang several songs.  It was a very enjoyable time and it went by so quickly.

Fatuma receives her certificate.

                       Speeches were followed by the presentation of the certificates to each student.  Some students had tears, but most had huge smiles.  It was so great to be there to watch them finish this long process.  Tom and I talked about how next year’s graduation will be the end of our time here. 

After the ceremony, lunch was served and the students sat with their families to enjoy the food picnic style.  Several professional photographers were on hand to take pictures and offer them for sale at the end of the day.  The most touching photos were the ones where the graduates posed with some of the older children.  They will miss these children so much and we will miss them.

ICH Graduates, Class of 2013

.

Visitors from Home

The day after we arrived back in Tanzania, we drove to Tanga to meet a group from our home congregation, St John’s Lutheran Church in Philadelphia.  The Lutheran Church worldwide has a program connecting synods around the world as partners.  Southeastern Pennsylvania Synod is partnered with the North Eastern Diocese of the ELCT.  Our congregation is partnered with Kana Lutheran Parish in Tanga, a small city on the Indian Ocean.  This partnership is how we came to be here in Irente.

In Tanga, we enjoyed the fellowship of our friends and visited Kana and it’s members.  Our pastor preached at the Sunday services and led a Bible study group in a discussion of disciples of God, especially those called by God, who at first objected to God’s call.  We visited a small sub-parish for worship on Sunday, where they held a fund-raiser to be able to complete the walls of the church and install a door. 

On Monday morning, we visited a sewing school, which is a project of Kana.  The school teaches young women to become seamstresses and tailors in order to provide them with a living or opportunity to open their own small shop.  These students are young women (and a few older ones) who pay a small tuition to attend the school.  The sewing machines are the treadle style and there are far more students than machines.  We were very warmly welcomed and got to see some of the clothing they were making.

Late Monday morning, we traveled to Irente.  Pastor Tricia and her husband David, rode in our car and the others were in the Kana vehicle.  We wished we could have seen all of their faces as we went the last 30 km up into the mountains from Mombo to Lushoto.  The road is narrow and steep with no guardrails and hairpin curves.  One person told us they rode most of the way with their eyes closed.  We remember that feeling!

At Irente, we were very warmly welcomed by the staff and students of the children’s home.  They greeted us all with bouquets of flowers and the singing of “Karibu Wageni Wetu” (Welcome our Visitors). 

The group stayed at the hostel at the home, but we had all of our meals together at our home.  Veronica did all of the cooking and arranged for a friend to help her while our group was there.  Catherine did most of the laundry and helped with cooking prep work.  I believe everyone enjoyed their meals, since we have had several requests for recipes from Veronica.

The group consisted of our pastor, four teachers, and a CPA.  Everyone got busy right away with various projects.  Mary and Rochelle worked with the school-aged children who were home on holiday.  The kids learned some new songs, made “books” about themselves, read stories and did a lot of math.

Don, David, and Vickie worked painting the kitchen at the home.  St John’s raised money in order to repair the walls and ceiling (which was starting to fall down because of roof leaks).  The new ceiling and plaster- work were done by some fundis (skilled workers) before we arrived.  The kitchen is now a beautiful, sunny yellow color.  It is a wonderful room to work in now.  St John’s also raised money to construct a protective awning so the students can walk from the prep kitchen to the cooking room without getting wet.  They also donated money for the purchase of two new tables and chairs for the dining room.  With these, all of the students can eat together in the dining room.

Pastor Tricia worked diligently in the shamba (vegetable garden) with the students.  Using a jembe (hoe), she dug planting beds until she had blisters on her hands.  She also enjoyed time for conversation with the students while they worked.  They really were impressed with pastor and how hard she worked. 

Besides painting, Vicki joined the students with all of the work they do everyday:  washing dishes, babies, and clothes (by hand), hanging laundry, and helping with food preparation. 

It was a wonderful time for Tom and I.  We enjoyed having friends from home with us.  They lived our life for a short time, complete with power outages, internet disruption, bucket showers, and for some, Eastern toilets.  We visited the market and they did some shopping.  We attended the early service at Irente Lutheran Church together.  We enjoyed a lively game of “Nacho Loco” and had some meaningful Bible study and conversations.

The visit was over too soon.  They traveled from Irente to Arusha on Sunday afternoon.  There they were to visit some schools through the Mwangaza Education program of the ELCT.  And of course, they concluded their trip with two days at the national parks at Ngorongoro Crater and Tarangire.

We enjoyed their visit so much and wish others could come to see how great, but different, life here is.  We say, “Karibu tena” (welcome again) to our friends, and also we welcome you to join us too!