We were invited to visit
Handeni this past weekend by our friend, Pastor Lewis Shemkala. We met Pastor
Shemkala on our first visit to Tanzania in 2008. At that time he was pastor of our partner
congregation in Tanga. In 2010 he stayed in our home in Cinnaminson while
visiting the US with a delegation from the ELCT to our synod, Southeastern
Pennsylvania. A little more than a year
ago, he was transferred to Handeni Lutheran Parish.
On Friday morning, William,
the evangelist and driver for Handeni, came to pick us up for the trip. Pastor had offered to provide our
transportation since we had never gone there before.
We started our trip at
Lushoto Hospital. Pastor’s grandmother
was being discharged with stage 4 cancer.
His wife and other family members were accompanying her home to Mlalo,
further up in the mountains. Former
Bishop Jali offered prayer before they left on their journey. He began with the first verse of “Shall We
Gather at the River” in Kiswahili and continued with prayer. It was very moving for all present. We offered to postpone our visit, but Pastor
had obligations in Handeni that required his presence there. He would go to Mlalo on our return.
The drive was about four
hours. The first two hours were familiar
to us…down the mountain to Mombo and then east to Korogwe (where we go for an
ATM machine). At Korogwe, we went south
on a newly rebuilt highway.
Handeni is a town in Handeni
District. This area is known as the
Lowlands. The scenery is so different
from where we usually travel. The roads
going east and west follow the Usambara and Pare Mountain ranges. Out one window, you see tall rugged
mountains. Out the other side is the
Maasai Steppe, mostly flat, dry land. In
some areas the tallest things are trees and termite mounds. Going toward Handeni, the land was rolling
with some higher hills in the distance.
It was much greener than we thought it would be because of recent
rains.
We passed through several
villages and noticed an increasing number of houses with thatched roofs. We
also saw more and more mud construction houses and fewer brick ones. Because of the colder temperatures here, most
homes are brick with tin roofs.
We reached Handeni and were
greeted by Pastor Shemkala’s two youngest children and some members of his
congregation. His home is on the grounds
of the church. The parish is in the
midst of completing their new church. It
is quite big and has beautiful tile work and details. They expect to complete the work by
2015. We enjoyed chai and spent until
dinner talking outside in the shade.
After dinner, William took
us to our hotel which will open at the end of this month. It will be called the Handeni Hilton, believe
it or not. The hotel has twenty-two ensuite
rooms and a restaurant out closer to the road.
Our accommodations were very good and it was cool enough that we did not
need to turn on the air conditioning.
In the morning after
breakfast, William picked us up and we all went with Pastor and his son Isaya, age
8, to the Maasai livestock market.
Pastor’s daughter Erica, age 11, decided to stay at home. The market is just outside town and was
crowded with many Massai people. In one
area there were cattle, in another were goats and a few sheep. In a third area, some verdors were selling
items like rope, tarps, and sandals.
William told us that the Maasai sell their cattle for various
reasons. Sometimes when there are not
enough grasses in their area, they reduce their herd accordingly. Also, they will sell some cattle and buy
others in order to strengthen the health of the herd. The cows were what we would call Brahma type,
with the hump on their back. Up in the
mountains, our cows look like those at home, but this kind does well in the
lower, warmer climate. There are also
people who come to buy cattle to resell or to sell for meat.
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| Pen of sold cattle |
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| Maasai cattle market |
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| cooling down with coconut milk |
After the market, we drove
through Handeni to see the shops, churches, and other sights. Then we returned for lunch. (It actually felt to me like we did a lot of
eating…breakfast, lunch, chai, and then dinner). We went back to the hotel to rest for the
afternoon, since Pastor had some meetings scheduled. We returned in the evening in time for
dinner.
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| with Erica and Pastor Shemkala |
Handeni parish seems much
more relaxed than Kana’s in Tanga. It is
out in the country and people just stop by throughout the day. In the evening, we sat outside the house and
enjoyed a beautiful red sunset and then watched as the sky darkened and the
stars came out one by one. It was also a
full moon. We enjoyed a delicious
dinner of fresh fish, chicken, ugali, potatoes, mchicha (spinach) and a salad
of cucumbers, carrots and tomatoes.
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| Handeni Lutheran Church |
In the morning, we were back
at church for the 7:30 service. The
attendance is usually around 300 people at the early service and less than a
hundred at the late service, which begins at 10. A retired doctor named Henry sat with us to
translate for us. There was a younger
women’s choir, a senior choir, and a brass group. The music was wonderful. We introduced ourselves and Tom spoke about
the Lutheran Church’s partnership program, which brought us here to
Tanzania.
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| Isaya Shemkala |
After the first service and another
light breakfast & chai, we traveled about a half hour to Sindeni. Before reaching Sindeni, we were met along
the road by a piki piki (motorcycle) driver who led us to our next stop. We turned off the road onto a dirt track and
were led through the bush to the Maasai sub parish. As we approached we could see and then hear
the singing by the members waiting for us.
The young women’s choir were singing a song of greeting. When we got out of the car and came to them,
they formed into a line and danced past us, lowering their head in front of
each of us. This is the custom of asking
for a blessing. So as each girl paused
before us and bowed her head, we put our hand on their head and offered a
blessing. There were about 20 members of
the choir, all dressed in their traditional robes. One girl was playing a drum and two had
wooden pipes they blew which made a horn sound.
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| In front of Sindeni Maasai sub-parish |
We were greeted by some
women and escorted into a small area off the sanctuary. They had prepared chicken and rice for us and
also gave us each bottled water and soda.
After we finished eating, Tom and I were led into the church, while
Pastor and William stayed behind to discuss the service with the
Maasai-speaking evangelist there. The
leader of the tribe was named Simon. He
introduced us to the congregation. He
also spoke perfect English, so he translated for us and explained different
aspects of the service. The girls sang
several songs. Pastor led the service in
Kiswahili and the evangelist translated into Kimaasai. The sound of the Maasai language is like
music itself.
Because we needed to get
back before dark, we had to leave the service before it ended. Outside Simon and a group of members
presented us each with a blanket and a beaded Maasai cross. We will treasure these and our memories of
this weekend forever.
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| Maasai beaded crosses |
We took a ride on
a ferry, which carries people and vehicles across the port. This was the first boating experience for
many of the students. We also visited
the airport and a street market called Kariakoo. We visited an orphanage run by the Catholic
Church. This was a chance for the
students to compare another institution and see how it is run. The children at this orphanage range in age
from newborn up to 5 years old. It was a
very long and hot day and we were glad when we returned to our hotel.
